What is exfoliation?
While worldwide awareness of exfoliation has exploded in the last decade, it’s a
concept that is thousands of years old. Even Cleopatra’s exfoliation secrets are
well documented!
Generally speaking, exfoliation refers to any technique that removes cells from
the skin surface, not only immediately “refreshing” the skin’s appearance but
also stimulating cell renewal. The benefits are dramatic, and, when used with
professional guidance, exfoliation can be used to treat a wide variety of skin
problems - including acne, hyper pigmentation, premature aging and scarring to
name a few.
Of course, there is huge variety in these techniques - scrubs, peels, masques,
dermabrasion, and lasers! Fortunately, your skin care therapist can help you
identify what will help you best achieve your goals.
Unlike physical exfoliants that
remove debris through gentle abrasion, hydroxy acid-based exfoliants smooth the
skin by dissolving the intercellular “glue” that attaches the cells to the
surface. Hydroxy acids are the most common form of at-home exfoliant because
they are extremely effective and, when used properly, very safe.
Of course, there are several different hydroxy acids. Glycolic Acid was the
first to be used in a cosmetic application, and is still widely-used despite its
high incidence of skin irritation. Lactic and Salicylic Acids, which are as
effective as Glycolic Acid, are now the choice of leading skin care
professionals because they deliver the same level of results with considerably
less irritation. Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant and Skin Renewal Booster are
two great at-home exfoliants that use this combination of Lactic and Salicylic
Acids.
Hydroxy acids may be combined with enzymes derived from Papaya (Propain) and
Pineapple (Bromelain) to help digest dead skin cells, resulting in even smoother
skin. The Phytic Acid in Rice Bran, the third key ingredient in their Daily
Microfoliant® also effectively dissolves dead surface cells.
Well, everyone exfoliates naturally. In fact, as you’re reading this, thousands
of tiny skin cells are falling off your body - about a million every minute! An
exfoliation regimen simply helps your body along in the process, which becomes
especially vital as we age. Teenagers completely regenerate their external layer
of skin, on average every 14 days. By the time you’re 40, however, that rate has
increased to 30-40 days. The result is dull, ashy or mottled-looking skin. An
exfoliation regimen can reduce the time that dulling skin cells sit at the
surface of our skin for a healthier, more vibrant complexion. Depending on your
age and skin condition, your therapist might prescribe a combination of
exfoliation therapies. Here are some examples:
Acne-Prone Skin: A masque-style exfoliant, such as Dermalogica Gentle Cream
Exfoliant, can help the skin combat extra oiliness and congestion without
aggravating acne conditions. Dehydrated Skin: Depending on the sensitivity of
your skin, you might select a masque-style or scrub-style exfoliant to help
remove the dry, dead debris and reveal healthy cells. Combining Skin Renewal
Booster with your moisturizer is another great option. Prematurely-Aging Skin:
Prematurely aged skin is often the result of sun exposure. Sun exposure causes a
build up of surface skin cells, which results in a dull, dehydrated appearance.
A physical exfoliant such as Skin Prep Scrub, plus professional MultiVitamin
Power Exfoliant treatments, will help slough away dead skin cells. Uneven
Pigmentation: Exfoliation is an important component of every hyperpigmentation
treatment because it helps remove the pigmented surface cells. Dermalogica Daily
Microfoliant®, when used as part of the Skin Brightening System, is the most
effective choice.
Depending on the strength of your treatment, your skin may feel a little tight
and sensitized for a little while when you leave the skin care center. This is
perfectly normal, and should dissipate quickly.
The most important consideration after any form of exfoliation is to protect
your super-vulnerable skin against the sun. An application of UltraSensitive
FaceBlock SPF25 will help protect your skin without any chance of sensitization.
You will also want to cleanse with a super-gentle cleanser, such as UltraCalming
Cleanser, and follow with your moisturizer to prevent dehydration. Your
therapist may recommend Barrier Repair for extra protection.
Many people get a little exfoliation-crazy under the mistaken notion that if a
little is good, a lot has to be great! (Ironically, this is why people often
mistakenly opt for the more irritating Glycolic Acid - they assume that more
irritation equals better results.) While every skin condition is different, and
reacts to exfoliation differently, you should tame down your exfoliation regimen
if your skin feels chapped, irritated or is unusually red for a prolonged period
of time. At this point, you’re not removing dead debris - you’re scrubbing away
the protective barrier of the epidermis, which can result in permanent
sensitization, premature aging and a host of other concerns.